HONOLULU, Hawaii - A strong El Nino pattern has brought massive waves to Hawaii, creating a surf event that locals are calling one of the largest of the year. With swells reaching as high as 50 feet, the Thanksgiving holiday saw surfers flocking to Waimea Bay on the island of O'ahu to take advantage of the monstrous waves.
Forecast models initially predicted waves between 20-30 feet, but the high surf exceeded expectations. The existence of an El Nino weather pattern, which tends to create larger-than-normal surf in the North Pacific, may be to blame for the recent record-breaking waves.
According to Kevin Wallis, Surfline's director of forecasting, El Nino can lead to an increased frequency of events that produce large surf. While every El Nino is different, it often results in bigger and stronger waves than average, particularly in areas like Hawaii and California.
The National Weather Service issued High Surf warnings and advisories for many coastal communities in Hawaii. Meteorologists warned of powerful currents and advised caution when navigating channel entrances. The large waves also contributed to coastal flooding during high tide.
As the High Surf Warning has been downgraded to an Advisory, surf heights are expected to decrease gradually through the weekend. The public is advised to follow guidance from ocean safety officials and avoid swimming in affected areas.
With the influence of El Nino, surf enthusiasts and experts will be eagerly monitoring future forecasts to see if more record-breaking waves are on the horizon.